24 January 2000
Arrived Wilpena in the Flinders Ranges about 2:30 pm after
leaving Broken Hill approx 8:30 am. Good drive across but weather
cool, windy and overcast, which does not show the Flinders to
their best advantage; however their uniqueness and grandeur still
very much apparent. Whole area seems very much drought affected
at the moment, not as I remember it at all, but perhaps I saw it
out of character and this is what it is usually like.
Went and had a look at the Casneaux Tree: a particular river red
gum famously photographed by Harold Casneaux in 1937 and still
going strong. Nearby used to be some sets used in the remake some
years ago of (I think) Robbery Under Arms. These were still
standing when I was here a couple of years ago but have now been
removed.
Also went to an aboriginal site called The Sacred Canyon and saw
aboriginal rock carvings there. No-one knows how old these are,
and their history is lost even among the local aboriginal people
themselves, who simply say (if memory serves) that they were put
there by the great creator in the Dreamtime.
Went as well to Huck's Lookout and Stokes' Hill Lookout, both of
which give spectacular views of the Flinders and some of the
other ranges hereabouts. Also saw old ruins at what used to be
Appealinna homestead - built of rock from nearby creek bed.
Dinner at the Wilpena Resort where we are staying was a bit of a
disappointment: pretentious, arty-farty menu, excessive prices,
fare very ordinary.
Will complete exploring tomorrow, then off Wednesday. Having
serious doubts about original plan to drive Strzlecki Track to
Innamincka then across south west Queensland and back coastwards.
Just had another look at map and distances just too great between
towns for safe single vehicle travel; plus uncertainty of
supplies, accommodation, fuel, repairs etc. Probably OK if in
convoy. Think safest bet to retrace steps via Milparinka and
Cameron's Corner to Thargomindah then across.