19 February 2000
Spent the day seeing the sights around Katherine (not to much to see, actually, of the things that interest us) and Mataranka (more to see).
Began by going out to see Katherine Gorge (aboriginal name Nitmiluk - sounds more Inuit, i.e., Eskimo). Bit disappointing really as I had already years ago seen pictures of it by a photographer called Frank Hurley, and so went there with preconceived ideas of what it would be like. But it wasn't. I rather thought the gorge (or gorges - apparently there are 13 of them, which I didn't know) were upstaged by the grandeur of the visitors' centre. I think the gorges must be at their best outside the wet season, but perhaps it just depends on what you are looking for. I can't remember now if the ranger said the boat tours were running or not; I know you couldn't hire canoes because of the height and speed of the river. You could, though, go on a helicopter flight over the gorge and surrounding areas (which I seriously considered but ultimately discarded because of the variably cloudy weather conditions - no good for sparkling piccies, which is the only reason I would have gone). So we settled on a fairly short walk up a pretty steep cliff to view the river after it came out of the final gorge. Not really what I was after. When we came back down we walked along the banks of the Katherine River back to where the ute was parked. The scenery along the river was totally different from what we had been used to seeing, consisting of pandanus palms and other exotic rainforest species. As we walked along I took a number of photographs and then stepped closer to the bank to frame another shot. All at once there was a commotion a couple of feet away from me and I saw this slim grey form about four feet (1.3 metres) long scrambling for the water. Croc! Ugh! I jumped back and let out a yell. When I looked around Lorraine had gone (I had not previously realized her potential for Olympic gold over the short sprint course). Then I remembered "it" was going the other way, so I stopped to take a look. When I turned around there this big goanna or water monitor or some such looking back at me (you could just see its neck and head peering up over the bank watching me), and I'm sure it was grinning from ear to ear - probably got its jollies by frightening the devil out of tourists. By this stage Lorraine had magically reappeared and everything had just quietened down again when a white cockatoo (you know how noisy they can be) flew just overhead and let out a piercing screech. Well, Lorraine was off again. But it shows just how careful you have to be up here, thinking of dangers we don't have to deal with down south.
From Katherine Gorge we headed back down to Mataranka (I like this little place) and had some breakfast (Devonshire Tea) at the Stockyard Gallery, which we shared with some blue-faced honey eaters who come and eat off the table with you. The lady there could talk the leg off an iron pot. There was also was some beautiful aboriginal art, a few pieces of which are now in our possession. I must keep away from these places. While at Mataranka we went out to a couple of spots on the Roper River but unfortunately there was not much to see. While out that way we returned to the Mataranka Homestead Resort to see the replica of the Elsey Station homestead which was used in the movie version of "We of the Never Never" (we missed it yesterday). It is supposed to be a faithful replica of the original homestead. Incidentally, the "Never Never" apparently refers to the sentiment expressed in the book that once you have been to the Mataranka area you Never, Never want to leave. There could be some truth in that.
On the northern side of Mataranka (just as you are leaving) is a turn-off to a place called Bitter Springs (aboriginal name Gorran). A memorable spot. To get there we had to cross a weir over the river which was under about a foot of water. The water was so clear you could easily see the road markings under it (that's how I knew we could get across okay). The springs are superb, and consist of a number of linked pools filled with crystal-clear water. You could clearly see the bottom (they appeared to be fairly deep) and the sand and rocks and plants growing there and you could swim and snorkel in sections of it), and all fringed with pandanus palms. Beautiful!
Working our way back towards Katherine we stopped at an old WW2 timber mill which once processed cypress pine for use as building materials (for barracks etc, and shipment overseas for the troops - nothing there anymore apart from an old boiler); also went out to look at the Cutta Cutta caves but arrived too late to see them (the last tour was at 3:00 p.m., and we couldn't get - and didn't want - access on our own, caves unknown to us and hence too dangerous); then went to look at RAAF Tindall Fighter Base thinking you could drive past like at Richmond, but you couldn't - no civilian access; also went to Katherine aerodrome, but all locked up except for airplane maintenance section (I think airport only opens when commercial flights in or out are expected). Back in Katherine went to look at old Katherine railway station (railway has not run for years).
That was Katherine. Darwin tomorrow - short run (approx 320 kms).