2 March 2000
After filthy night in Dampier (torrential rain, gale force winds) decided to decamp. Rang Mazda dealer in Carnarvon to have him order new driver's side front blinker lens - old one was smashed weeks ago courtesy of a cowboy semi-trailer driver. Dealer is also an authorized inspection station so will also get him to inspect ute for rego when we get there. Rang local inspection station and cancelled this afternoon's appointment. Drove back to Karratha, breakfasted at Mcdonalds then looked through shopping centre. Thought Lorraine was going to swoon at the sight of all the shops and supermarkets. It had been so long since she'd seen any that her eyes glazed over and she went all funny.
When she had recovered, drove south-west out of Karratha along the North West Coastal Highway towards Carnarvon but 220 kms from Karratha decided to detour 122 kms north-west to Onslow to see what was there. Nothing much, as it turned out. But at least we won't die wondering. Onslow is another small, dusty, grubby, unprepossessing little place - but nevertheless it has a certain odd character and charm. This may stem from the fact that it is not a creation of the mining industry (although it is the base for the gas and oil fields off the coast) and has a history of its own. The town was originally at the mouth of the Ashburton River but was moved to its present site on Beadon Bay in 1925 after constant cyclones caused the river to silt up. It was originally a pearling centre, and gold was discovered there in the 1890's. It was also a refuelling base for British, US and Dutch submarines during WW2 and was bombed twice by the Japanese. When we had seen everything that Onslow had to offer (which took all of 15 minutes, including refuelling the ute) we drove out to the site of the old town. This too was interesting but all that remains now, apart from the cemetery and the skeleton of an old sulky, is the gaol and some adjoining buildings - probably the police station and gaolers' quarters. The tops of the perimeter walls of the gaol are set with broken bottles and broken glass to discourage would-be escapees (note: not "escapers"). On the drive back to the highway disturbed a large flock of magpie geese feeding alongside the road. There must have been several dozen birds, all looking sartorially splendid in their black and white plumage as they rose and wheeled away.
On regaining the highway drove on 40 kms to the Nanutarra Roadhouse where we had lunch (and where the road is marked out for use as an emergency landing strip for the Royal Flying Doctor Service). By now it was around 4:00 p.m. and we were still 366 kms from Carnarvon. It was obvious we would not reach it until around 9:30 p.m. I had been looking at the map and trying to decide whether or not to go up to Exmouth and decided, in view of the time it would take to get to Carnarvon to go instead to Exmouth provided the road was open. It was, and Exmouth was only 240 kms away and we got in around 8:15 p.m. I haven't done much night driving since being away, and thoroughly enjoyed it. It was interesting too for the different animals that showed up in the driving lights: a fox (most surprising - first one we have seen, alive or dead); a wombat (first one of these we've seen, too - just a little fellow); two small snakes crossing the road (about 12"-14" long); a mouse, and grasshoppers (at least that's what we think they were - their eyes glow green in the lights when they are on the road and facing toward you).
Another reason for coming to Exmouth is that the Cape Range National Park is nearby and contains a couple of acclaimed scenic gorges - if we can get in to them. Weather today all the down has been very strong winds and showers - compliments of tropical cyclone Norman, which is sitting off the coast north west of here and influencing local weather conditions (and not for the better).
After checking out Exmouth and surrounds tomorrow will head for Carnarvon, which is only 369 kms to the south.