24 March 2000
Decided to come out to Ayers Rock and the Olga's first. Were originally going to stay at Erldunda overnight (due to lower accommodation costs) and come out in the morning, but as we arrived at Erldunda around 2:00 pm that would have meant wasting an afternoon there and then having to drive the 250 kms out here in the morning anyway. So decided to come straight out and stay at the Yulara Resort. We are NOT staying in the $650 per night (off season rates) five star accommodation.
Saw some wonderful scenery on the way here. About 20 kms north of Coober Pedy saw a turn off to the Breakaways. Had seen these mentioned as part of an organized tour, and so decided to drive out the 11 kms to have a look. In a word: Spectacular! After driving out along a dirt road you suddenly come to an edge where the plain in front of you and to the sides drops away abruptly to a deep valley and plain. Totally unexpected and quite remarkable. Weather at this stage was sunny, but bitterly cold wind blowing.
Continued on through Cadney Homestead to Marla, where we refuelled. Marla is the jumping-off point for the Oodnadatta Track, down which we (I) are (am) considering returning from Alice Springs. Would probably stay overnight at Marla, then set off early the next morning for Oodnadatta, William Creek, Maree, Lyndhurst, Copley and then back on to the Hawker road at Leigh Creek. I would like to return this way (depending on fuel supplies and road and weather conditions), but Lorraine not as adventurous because of remoteness. We'll see.
After refuelling at Marla, continued northwards and crossed border into NT about 1:00 pm. Drove on through Kulgera to Erldunda, where we topped up with fuel again. From Erldunda, left turn, Clyde, and 250 kms west on the Lasseter Highway through Mt Ebenezer and Curtin Springs to reach Yulara around 4:30 pm. Fabulous sight about 150 kms west of Erldunda. As you drive along the gently hilly highway you suddenly see the flat-topped, steep-sided Mount Connor sitting there on your left as if having suddenly appeared from nowhere. It gives you such a shock the way it just suddenly appears it almost takes your breath away. A wonderful sight and rivalling, in my opinion, the more famous Ayers Rock.
The countryside all around here (and, indeed, since we crossed the border) is incredibly grassy and green (no doubt due to the rain and flooding in the area about 6-8 weeks ago). The landscape looks like any grassy paddock or playing field you might find at home.
After settling into motel, went exploring. Were going to go out to the Rock and then on to the Olga's to take photographs in the late afternoon light and recce shooting positions for the morning. However when we went out there were told we had to pay $15 each for a five day pass which would give us access to both the Rock and the Olga's. Explained we weren't staying five days, just overnight and wasn't there a per day or per visit rate? Nope. $15 each for a five day pass. Guess who wasn't best pleased? Refused to pay and turned round and drove back out. I think it's disgusting (also immoral, obscene and several other things) to have to pay to see a natural phenomenon which was provided free to all by the Creator. We don't charge people to come and see Sydney Harbour, or the Three Sisters, do we?
Anyway, got the views we wanted from a couple of lookouts outside the park. And on reflection I don't think the views in the park would have been as good, as we would have been too close to these extremely large features. Will go back to the same lookouts in the morning for the early morning shots, before the light loses its warmth (please let it be fine and sunny, God), then off back east to Erldunda then north to Alice Springs.
PS Times stated above are Sydney times minus half an hour. We lost another hour somewhere along the way here today - I don't know where or when. It all becomes very confusing.