26 March 2000

Glad now we extended our stay in Alice Springs. Otherwise would not have seen Simpsons Gap or the Standley Chasm.

Not having originally planned more then an overnight stay here, we treated ourselves to a sleep-in this morning and got up at 7:20 instead of 7:00 (and besides, I forgot to set the alarm clock).

So after a slow, relaxed, languorous morning cup of tea and a 'phone call to Mum for her birthday we got away around 9:30 and went out to visit the grave of Reverend John Flynn (of Royal Flying Doctor Service fame). At least it's described as his grave in all the tourist brochures, but this is not strictly speaking true. It is what I would describe as a memorial, with his ashes buried under a large rock. I wanted to move the rock to make sure they were still there (after all, how do you really know?), but Lorraine didn't think this was a good idea.

From Flynn's "Grave" drove out along the road that goes to the Hermannsburg Mission and turned off to have a look at Simpsons Gap. This is a beautiful narrow pass between two towering, rocky cliffs in the West MacDonnell Ranges. Raging torrents of water must have torn through here in aeons past to have formed it, and then spent their strength in the wide sandy dry river bed below. It is one of those awe inspiring places where people slowly wander 'round gazing upwards at the towering red cliffs, or just sit in quiet contemplation, and with everybody speaking in whispers.

We then drove further out towards Hermannsburg to see the Standley Chasm. After seeing a picture of this place in a brochure yesterday, I realized it was the Standley Chasm I was thinking of when I was referring to walking through the Katherine Gorge. This also is a very beautiful place (but in our view not as beautiful as Simpsons Gap). However access is much more difficult because of the narrow, uneven, rocky and slippery track through to it. But this did not deter the considerable number of elderly tourists we saw making the pilgrimage - some even on walking sticks. Good luck to them for going to see it, but they are running considerable risks because of the difficult terrain. I hope their tour guide told them of this.

We then returned to the Todd Mall in Alice Springs and had a good look round there. This is quite nice, but is very "touristy". We were particularly struck by the number of shops (sorry, Galleries) selling souvenirs and "genuine" aboriginal art and artefacts. There must have been 8-10 of these, all on each others doorsteps (and another half dozen or so which were closed). Aboriginal is obviously fashionable. And come to think of it, there hasn't been a town, city or village we've been in that hasn't had its genuine aboriginal art gallery. Some of it is really beautiful stuff (some of it) but there is so much of it about that it must be a nightmare for investors (read "speculators") who buy for resale at a profit rather than for pleasure. Good.

Then returned to the motel where we had a couple of quiet beers and some munchies.

Ute went well, with no sign of any overheating problems except when idling for extended periods. Think problem is thermostatic fan rather than radiator requiring flushing, or thermostat. Will talk to mechanic in the morning to see if fan can be tested. If not, will probably just put up with it for the moment, as it will only be a problem if caught in traffic jam or something like that (not likely out here).