30 March 2000
Decided to move on via the Barossa. Had a good look round Gawler before we left. It is an old area, quite large and with some really beautiful old buildings.
From Gawler drove across to Lyndoch, then up through Tanunda and on to Nuriootpa at the head of the Barossa Valley. The countryside was very picturesque, with all the grape vines planted in orderly rows. Many of them were underplanted with red and white roses, which added to the colour. The weather, unfortunately, was heavy overcast, which did not show it all to the best advantage. The towns were just beautiful - small, with their period cottages and colourful cottage gardens and all the old stone buildings. We stopped at Nuriootpa for some breakfast and I was fortunate to have the most delicious Devonshire Coffee I have ever tasted - beautiful fresh, warm scones, cream, and the most wonderful strawberry jam. The jam was homemade by a lady who is 70 years old, and it tasted like no strawberry jam I had ever had before.
We had noticed a lot of older people on motor bikes all over the area and I asked one of them what was going on. He said the AGM (Annual General Meeting) of the Ulysses over 40's Motor Cycle Club was being held in Nuriootpa. He said the club has a membership of 20,000 people Australia-wide, and that 4,000-5,000 people would be attending the meeting. We could well believe it. Everywhere you turned there were people on motor bikes. Pillion and in side cars. And their trailers and swags. And as we drove along the roads on the way out, more were arriving all the time. Singly, in pairs, and in larger groups. They were everywhere.
Left them to their AGM and drove out of Nuriootpa east to Angaston, and then on to Swan Reach (64 kms east), where we crossed the Murray River on a punt (ferry) and continued another 97 kms further east to Loxton (another very pretty old town), where we refuelled and turned south to run down the SA side of the border with Victoria through Paruna, Pinnaroo (where we stopped for lunch), Bordertown, Naracoorte (quite a large regional centre, and again the lovely old buildings), Penola, and on to Mt Gambier, which we reached about 6:00 p.m.
For10 kms or so on the run-in to Penola we saw nothing but grape vines. On both sides of the road, and stretching back as far as the eye could see. Certainly left the Barossa for dead. Lorraine was quite disappointed in the Barossa, expecting it to be much bigger than it was. And I was surprised too. It seems the Barossa has set itself up as the tourist mecca, but that the bulk of the wine grapes are grown elsewhere. Or maybe we just missed a lot of it, not knowing where to look. On the Mt Gambier side of Penola are huge plantation pine forests. Oh, and more grape vines.
Mt Gambier itself is a very large place. We will have a look round it tomorrow before we head out, but have already had a quick look at the Blue Lake.
Tomorrow we'll probably head down to the coast, then across the border to Portland in Victoria, east along the Prince's Highway to Warrnambool and then pick up the great Ocean Road to Port Campbell and down towards Cape Otway.
Will see what happens. Hopefully also fine, sunny weather.